Where the West was Framed
Subscribe Now!Monument Valley’s landscape is the quintessential backdrop of American Westerns
Long before the silver screen glamorized Monument Valley, Harry and Leone “Mike” Goulding opened a trading post with the Navajo Nation in this sandstone kingdom. By the late 1930s, their humble outpost had become a gateway for Hollywood films.
When word reached Harry that United Artists was scouting a new Western movie backdrop in 1938, he carried photographer Josef Muench’s portfolio of sweeping buttes and mesas to Los Angeles. The result was Stagecoach (1939), the first of 11 John Ford-directed films shot here. The production launched John Wayne’s career and secured the valley’s cinematic legend.
Today, Monument Valley remains sacred to the Navajo and a showstopping destination for set-jetting travelers eager to stand where the classics were filmed. The layered red rock, the endless sky and the silence give this place a grandeur that no studio can recreate. “You have to see it to believe the scale of these monuments,” said Ross Rutherford, general manager of Goulding’s Lodge. “Film and photos can try to capture it, but the landscapes are so grand.”
Visitors flock to “Forrest Gump Hill” (1994) on Highway 163, Dead Horse Point State Park’s cliff from Thelma & Louise (1991), the sunburnt ridges featured in Back to the Future Part III (1990), and Totem Pole spire as shown in Clint Eastwood’s The Eiger Sanction (1975). But the heart of the story still beats at Goulding’s Lodge.
The old trading post from 1928 is now a museum filled with film stills, call sheets, memorabilia and a replica set from She Wore a Yellow Ribbon (1949). John Wayne’s Cabin, once a vegetable storehouse, even served as his personal quarters during movie filming.
The Stagecoach Restaurant, once a chow hall for Wayne and his crew, now serves Southwestern and Navajo cuisine. Inside a 40-seat movie room, Ford’s Westerns play on loop.
But the most intimate frame is outside. Tucked behind one of the guest lodges is a quiet patio where, each night during filming, Ford and Wayne lit cigars, leaned back in their chairs and watched the sandstone monuments fade into darkness.
The next day’s scenes were born right there, in that high desert hush.
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